Lucie and Luke Meier made a life change this year—maybe the biggest kind of life change. They had a baby girl in June. That kind of development can alter a designer’s perspective, and backstage they discussed their new point of view: “It’s about embracing a positive future,” Lucie said. “Yes,” interjected Luke, “kids are a material reminder that the future has to be better.”
In their four years at Jil Sander the Meiers haven’t often talked about emotions; in the past, at least, they’ve been more comfortable discussing the cut and line of their clothes. This season the cut and line were, at turns, boxy and oversize (see: the lapel-less jackets) or lightly nipped (the dresses that cinched at the lower back with medallion jewelry). Those details are important, they’re what separate the grownups from the kids, after all; but they’re only part of why people shop for and buy fashion. In the end, it often comes down to emotion. And tapping into personal emotions—it doesn’t have to be the love that young parents know for their newborn, or the hope they have for her future—is bound to make a collection feel more connected.
Jil Sander // Spring Summer 2022 Womenswear
That’s what this Jil Sander collection felt: more connected to real life. Chalk that up to all the denim, which was cut loose and slouchy and in washes beyond basic indigo. Or chalk it up to the models’ mules and boots, which were chic yet still friendly, with, as a colleague put it, the attitude of a high-heel but the comfort of a low one. Either way it was believable and persuasive.
The starkest change since the last time the Meiers put a live show on the runway was the color palette. Fall 2020—a lifetime ago—was mostly black and white, with a flash of red. Here, they experimented with a range of pastels and brights, and added in some zebra print for good measure. The purple-ish tone of the overheads made the colors shift as the looks came down the long runway. “We’ve learned not to take things too seriously,” said Lucie. That came across clearest in a couple of outfits at the end, which layered sequin-embroidered shifts over trousers and boots. Those sequinned shifts count as a real departure for the Meiers: loose, playful, and fun.
Source: VOGUE
Images:© IMAXtree.com
#Jil Sander // Spring Summer 2022 Womenswear
#Jil Sander // Spring Summer 2022 Womenswear
#Jil Sander // Spring Summer 2022 Womenswear
#Jil Sander // Spring Summer 2022 Womenswear
#Jil Sander // Spring Summer 2022 Womenswear